Sikkim: Where We Found Our Way Back to the World

After months of being confined to four walls, we packed our bags and escaped to a corner of India we knew almost nothing about. What followed was eight days of snow, mountains, unexpected adventures, wonderful people, and a honeymoon that felt like finding our way back to the world.

Remember the times when the overcast of the COVID clouds confined all of us within the four walls of our homes? Though for some, this was a much-needed detox, for me and my partner Vipin, it meant spending our honeymoon in our hometown with our heads buried in our laptops and doomscrolling away our frustrations of not being able to step out and explore like we had been planning for years before our marriage.

Why Sikkim?

No particular reason. Safe to say, we got influenced by a random biker-YouTuber roaming around in northeastern India, where no one we knew had really been to. Somehow, running away to that corner of India felt like the much-needed redemption after almost 8 months of quarantine.

Out of the blue, getting to Sikkim from Kerala, a place we knew nothing about, somehow became a dream for us. We booked our tickets on a random date, without being sure whether we would even be able to step out of the house, let alone get to the airport.

The Trip at a Glance

For those who are here for the itinerary and don't necessarily want to read through our entire travel saga, here's the trip in a nutshell.

Day 0 — Gangtok

✈️ Bengaluru → Bagdogra

🚗 Bagdogra → Gangtok

🏨 Check-in near MG Marg

🌧️ Evening stroll around MG Marg + our first dinner from Sikkim.

Day 1 — Gangtok → Lachen

🚙 Start our North Sikkim adventure

🏔️ Scenic drive along the Teesta, Waterfalls and View point pitstops included.🏡 Overnight stay at Lachen

Day 2 — North Sikkim

❄️ Kala Patthar

🏔️ Gurudongmar Lake

🚙 Long drive to Lachung

🏡 Overnight stay at a homestay

Day 3 — North Sikkim

❄️ Zero Point / Yumesamdong

🌸 Yumthang Valley

♨️ Hidden hot spring

🚙 Back to Gangtok by night

Day 4 — East Sikkim

🏍️ Rented a Himalayan bike

🌄 Tashi View Point

🏔️ Changu Lake / Tsomgo Lake

🪖 Baba Harbhajan Singh Shrine

🇮🇳 Attempted Nathu La Pass (the border was closed that day!)

Day 5 & 6 — Gangtok

☕ Slow days after an eventful North Sikkim trip

🛍️ Local markets + wandering around Gangtok

🏨 A little honeymoon luxury at The Elgin Nor-Khill

🐶 Way too much time spent with El Thang, the resident Samoyed

Day 7 — Heading back home

✈️ Time to leave Sikkim and head back to reality.

Trip style: A little bit of adventure, a lot of mountains, some questionable confidence on a rented bike, plenty of food, and enough downtime to actually enjoy being on our honeymoon.

One of the questions we would have loved to have answered before planning this trip was: “Okay, but how much is this actually going to cost?”

So, for anyone planning a similar trip, here is what we spent on our 8-day Sikkim adventure.

A few things worth knowing

Our biggest variable was the North Sikkim leg, since it involved the guide, vehicle, permits and accommodation across Lachen and Lachung. The rest of the trip was relatively flexible, especially the days we spent exploring Gangtok on our own.

If you're planning a similar trip today, I'd recommend using this as a rough historical reference and checking current prices before booking.

We travelled from 27th February to 7th March — right at the tail end of winter, just before the spring crowds arrive. The timing worked out beautifully for North Sikkim, as most of the major places were snow-covered and we luckily did not face any road closures.

The Story

And now, for those who stayed — here's what actually happened.

Getting There

There are many ways to reach Sikkim from Bengaluru, with a flight being the fastest option. There are two ways to reach Gangtok:

1. Fly from Bengaluru to Bagdogra and then take a cab to Gangtok
2. Fly directly to Pakyong Airport.

Back in 2021, option 2 was not very popular, and the flights there were smaller, highly weather-dependent, and less frequently connected directly from major southern hubs like Bengaluru, making Bagdogra the preferred and most practical choice.

Itinerary

Day 0: Reaching Gangtok

The flight experience of reaching Bagdogra was worth mentioning. The COVID mania was still lingering, and it was a completely unique ordeal. Anyone who would have travelled during the COVID times can definitely vouch for that. Alternate passengers were asked to wear PPE kits, and the security and temperature screenings, indefinite long waits, and flight delays — everything felt like we were being tried for setting out on this venture. But once the flight took off, and when we were about to reach Bagdogra, we were wholeheartedly welcomed by the sight of the Kanchenjunga mountain ranges and the Greater Himalayan ranges. The ridges resemble the shape of “Sleeping Buddha,” and Google says we might have also seen Mount Everest as well. But nevertheless, it was a sight to behold and a sign that the travel Gods were blessing us.

After getting a cab from Bagdogra Airport to Gangtok, we reached Gangtok around evening. Even though the distance to Gangtok was just 124 km, it took us around 6 hours, with multiple checkpoints where the vehicle permits were checked.

On reaching Gangtok, we checked into our hotel near MG Marg (MG Road), where we were super excited to roam around and have our first meal from Sikkim.

The first night in Sikkim was something I will always cherish when I think of this trip. It was drizzling, and we walked around with our umbrellas, just taking in the charm of the place. The place had a strange calmness, even with a lot of people walking around. The dim street lights, the light drizzle, extremely fashionable people walking around, and the wide-eyed us — it was what our hearts and heads needed more than anything. We ended up choosing Tibet Kitchen in MG Marg to do the honours of being our first meal in Sikkim. The inexplicable feeling of the first meal at a completely new place is my favourite feeling to cherish on every single trip!

We had pork momos and chicken shyaphale for dinner. The fact that I remember this after almost 5 years proves in itself that it was a memorable dinner. We also tried the famous Sikkim Musk brandy, a popular regional alcoholic beverage brewed using spices and known for its rich aroma and smooth taste.

After dinner, we spent some more time walking around MG Marg and went back to sleep.

Day 1: Journey to North Sikkim — Gangtok to Lachen

After a late, laid-back morning in Gangtok, we packed our bags and set out to meet our guide for the entire North Sikkim trip. We got his contact through a common friend, and he was the best tour guide you could ask for.

One thing we have been blessed with in almost all our trips is that we have met some really good and kind people, some of whom we even now keep in touch with. That is the thing about travel — you meet new people who make your time well spent, which makes these places even more beautiful.

We met our guide near the Gangtok bus stand, from where we began our journey to North Sikkim, a remote, high-altitude Himalayan district in Sikkim which is notoriously famous for its snow-capped peaks, glacial lakes, and picturesque valleys.

The terrain to reach North Sikkim was not an easy one. The endless paperwork, vehicle permits, and unfamiliar environs made us thankful for the fact that we had actually hired a guide to cover this leg of the journey.

Our guide-cum-travel planner, Kesar Bhaiyya, was the sweetest person we could have asked for.

He was excited to hear that my partner and I are foodies and are open to trying anything that he suggests. Little did we know we were in for a treat. He fed us a tremendously tasty pork dish on our way from a quaint little roadside shop.

Our journey to Lachen was indisputably idyllic. Roads wrapped around mountains, following the emerald-hued Teesta River, strategic waterfall pitstops, breathtaking viewpoints, and vibrant Tibetan prayer-flag-bejewelled bridges — everything reminded us of the clichéd fact that even the most unruly, less-trodden roads often lead to beautiful experiences and destinations.

Lachen — a picturesque hamlet in North Sikkim, disconnected from the bustling touristy crowd — was our home for that night. Even though the distance from Gangtok to Lachen was just 124 km, it took us almost 8–9 hours, with the pitstops, to reach our hostel-hotel. There are very few accommodation facilities in Lachen, and it is very important to reach the destination before these little places fill up, or else you won't have an option other than to return all the way back to Gangtok or some other nearby village.

Lachen, for us, was a base camp and overnight stop before heading to the high-altitude Gurudongmar Lake.

After a humble yet fulfilling dinner, we managed to sleep and wake up alive the next day after a bone-chilling 3-degree-Celsius night in the hotel.

Day 2: Lachen — Kala Patthar — Gurudongmar Lake

The next day, we got our frozen butts ready at 3 am in the morning, as per our guide’s suggestion, as we had to cross the first military checkpoint before 10 am to ensure that we had ample time to admire the majestic Gurudongmar Lake.

On our way to Gurudongmar Lake, we took a small detour to Kala Patthar from Thangu Valley. This is a very less-frequented destination and often reachable only with the help of local operators. The place was 15,500 ft above sea level and was truly a sight to behold. It was here that I witnessed snow and snowfall in real life for the very first time. The excitement was ineffable and special. The place was blanketed by snow and featured dark Himalayan mountain ranges, showing us how proudly the place held the name “Kala Patthar” high.

We were frantic when our guide told us that we had some time to spend here before starting for the next destination. We did it all — making snow angels and snowmen, throwing snow cannons at each other, hunting for the perfect snowflake. It felt like both of us were just two little kids who wanted to have fun. Moments like these always remind us of the little joys in life which make the journey worthwhile.

After Kala Patthar, we resumed our journey to Gurudongmar. Gallivanting through the narrow roads amidst the cold desert, with snow-capped mountains in the backdrop, while passing by several military regiments, left us literally spellbound. We did not realise that we were silently trying to take in all the beauty in front of our eyes as much as was possible for any human being.

Gurudongmar Lake, one of the world’s highest lakes, sitting at 17,800 ft above sea level, was nothing less than a spectacle. The lake is considered sacred among the locals, and our guide enlightened us with the folklore of how Guru Padmasambhava blessed the villagers during an acute water crisis in winter and melted a portion of the lake.

After spending some magical time at Gurudongmar Lake, we set out for Lachung, our next destination and home for the next day.

One note to travellers: it was a bit heartbreaking to see people dancing and playing over the frozen lake, unaware of the dangers and insensitive to the beliefs of the locals. Being responsible and respectful of the place we travel to should be non-negotiable wherever we travel.

Day 3: Lachung — Zero Point — Yumthang Valley

We reached Lachung by evening and went straight to bed after dinner. Our stay was arranged at Kesar Bhaiya’s humble homestay, where the rooms were quite spacious and adjacent to his own house. He was kind enough to invite us home and introduce us to his cute pets. We had a fulfilling home-cooked dinner made by his mother, along with their amazing company.

The next day, we got up at around 7 am and got ready. We thought the highlight of our trip was Gurudongmar Lake, but we were in for a treat that day. Lachung is another beautiful village filled with small wooden houses with tiny kitchen gardens and narrow winding roads. It was as if we were teleported to a different era. We walked around the neighbourhood of our homestay after breakfast while Kesar Bhaiyya was getting ready to take us to another day of adventure.

Just like Lachen was our base camp before Gurudongmar Lake, Lachung is like the scenic base station for the famous Yumthang Valley — the “Valley of Flowers.” Before reaching Yumthang Valley, we had another pitstop at Zero Point — Yumesamdong.

Sitting at 15,500 ft above sea level, this place is an offbeat destination due to the unpredictable weather. Since we visited around February–March, we heard the locals saying that we were lucky this was not closed due to heavy snowfall. I get a sense of achievement subconsciously, as if the Nature Gods were favouring us out of all those other unlucky sapiens.

My wish to see snow was fulfilled beyond words. We had snow till our knees. In places, we went back to being those untamable toddlers at the first chance we got. Apart from the beauty of the place, one thing we noticed was how patient, propitious, and polite the local guides are to each other and to the tourists. There was no honking or hollering, making the entire experience very gratifying and peaceful.

After Zero Point, we headed to Yumthang Valley. The Himalayan mountains surrounding the snow-canopied valley of coniferous trees made it truly a Winter Wonderland! The temperature was -11 degrees Celsius, our first sub-zero temperature experience! While we were roaming around the valley, with the cold winds eating through our bones, our guide took us to a lesser-known place in the valley. It was a hot spring! The locals had built a shelter over it so that anybody who wanted could have a dip in the hot spring in the middle of a frozen valley. It felt so unique.

After our time in Yumthang Valley, we headed back to Gangtok, where we had planned the rest of the trip on our own. Kesar Bhaiyya dropped us off at our hotel by night, and our North Sikkim tour was nothing less than a spectacle. It will always be special to both of us, and we will definitely miss being taken around by the sweetest guide anyone could ever ask for.

Day 4 — East Sikkim

Every day at a new destination is thrilling! On Day 4, we decided that we would rent a bike and travel to Nathu La Pass and explore the places in East Sikkim. It was quite an impulsive decision, considering our inexperience in driving in such terrain and our overconfidence that we could manage. We took a Himalayan bike and set out on our little adventure of exploring Gangtok and heading straight to Nathu La Pass.

First stop was the Tashi View Point, a mountaintop viewpoint in Gangtok where we could have a panoramic view of Gangtok city. On good days, one can spot Mount Kanchenjunga and Mount Siniolchu from here, and I have heard the sunrises and sunsets are quite spectacular. We went there after our breakfast and spent a little time enjoying the views and dressing up in traditional Sikkimese outfits for our touristy photo souvenirs.

After that, we set out for the famous Nathu La Pass, the edge of the Indo-China border. The landmark is at a distance of around 50 km from Gangtok. The ride to Nathu La Pass was quite a journey to remember. The cold winds cut through our skin, making it difficult to cope even with all the sub-zero layering we had done. We had to stop midway at a local shop to get more insulation for our hands and necks.

On our way to Nathu La Pass, we stopped at the beautiful Changu Lake — Lake Tsomgo. If I remember correctly, the permit to the lake was bundled with the Nathu La Pass permit, which we got from where we had taken our bike rental. Lake Tsomgo is a high-altitude glacial lake which offers a serene ropeway ride, from where you can spot the zigzag trade roads and nearby regions. The entire lake was frozen and had large, decorated yaks at different places, adding colour to the entire scenery.

After the Changu Lake picnic, we stopped next at the Baba Harbhajan Singh Shrine on our way to Nathu La Pass. The vibe there was really fun! Tourists vibing to the “Rang De Basanti” song playing in the background, excellently maintained premises, and a small pristine shrine honouring a soldier who is believed to still protect the border and features his preserved belongings. It was a quiet pitstop which we liked a lot. The place had a lot of tourists, but that did not hamper our experience of enjoying the place in peace.

Then we headed straight to Nathu La Pass, only to find a long queue of tourists waiting at the gates. The border was temporarily closed due to some important diplomatic meeting being held by both countries. We waited in line with other hopeful tourists but had to return unsuccessfully. Nevertheless, we never felt this was a setback in any way. While we waited for the gates to open, we were blessed with the wonderful sight of Mt Kanchenjunga. We had our customary Maggi and hot chocolate from a roadside vendor and declared that the trip was indeed a success. In fact, it is always good to leave one thing off the list so that it will lead us back to Sikkim some other day.

As we rode back to Gangtok, the air around us started getting even chillier. The Sun had already bid farewell to us early that day, and that's when the reality of how cold this place can get hit us hard. Our only motive now was to reach Gangtok before the numbing cold got us.

We reached back by night and had a relaxing evening with a hot dinner.

Day 5 & 6 — Gangtok

These two days, for me and my partner, were about winding down and recovering from the eventful vacation, pampering ourselves with a little luxury, and finally prepping ourselves to go back to our daily hustle.

As planned, we just spent time roaming around Gangtok and the local markets, observed and talked to local folks, and tried to learn more about their lives in Sikkim.

We stayed at The Elgin Nor-Khill Resort, which is a luxury five-star heritage resort and spa located in the heart of Gangtok. It was originally built as a royal guest house for the King of Sikkim. After all, we are also on our honeymoon! The place was beautifully furnished, and everything was so perfectly maintained. To add to the charm of the place, we had the company of “El Thang” — a fluffy little bundle of cloud, the cutest Samoyed doggy. He was such a poser and the best of the best boys ever!

Our final days in Sikkim felt like the fitting climax to an amazing vacation after a time when the whole world felt like a sad place. From within the four walls of our home, we packed our bags, booked our tickets to a place which, till then, was only a place we saw on the map. We had no assurance of whether the borders would open, and a hundred such what-ifs. When I look back, I feel this trip was made possible only because we wanted to escape from our realities and to be just out there in the world, to finally find the peace we thought we had lost in all the chaos of life.